| Over the past couple of years I have been trying | | | | Even as young wine Nebbiolo is brownish. The |
| to share my enthusiasm for wines made from | | | | nose of classic Nebbiolo is hot tar and roses, |
| non-mainstream grape varieties. | | | | which sounds a bit off. When you smell a good |
| Most of my friends are wine drinkers who enjoy | | | | example you will realise how pleasant the smell of |
| the good life. If I suggested that they should eat | | | | hot tar can be. The flavours are quite complex, |
| lamb chops with mashed potatoes and peas for | | | | cherries and plums, cedar, spices and hints of |
| dinner every day they would be appalled. But | | | | mushrooms and rotting undergrowth. If you enjoy |
| almost every bottle of wine they open is Shiraz, | | | | Pinot noir you probably find Nebbiolo to your taste. |
| Cabernet sauvignon or a blend of one of these | | | | Finding a good Nebbiolo is like the search for the |
| varieties. | | | | Holy Grail, difficult but worth the journey. The |
| "But doesn't taste like Shiraz," they say after I | | | | foods to pair with Nebbiolo wines are hearty |
| give them a glass of wine made from an | | | | winter stews, game and mushroom based dishes. |
| uncommon winegrape variety. | | | | Strong and ripe cheeses such as Gorgonzola also |
| Exactly, that's the point. The thing that makes | | | | demand a wine with the sort of complexity and |
| wine such an interesting thing, apart from being a | | | | depth that Nebbiolo sometimes achieves. |
| wonderful drink, is the endless variation wrought | | | | Barbera is Nebbiolo's lightweight cousin, more |
| by grape varieties, wine styles, regions, vintages | | | | approachable when young and it does sometimes |
| and winemakers skills. | | | | resemble a lighter style Shiraz. Better examples |
| Australian winemakers are now using varieties like | | | | will have well developed cherry flavours. Barbera's |
| Sangiovese, Tempranillo, Nebbiolo, Barbera, and | | | | high acidity and low tannin combine to produce |
| Petit verdot to make impressive red wines. | | | | lighter, fruity styles. Again match this variety with |
| However many wine consumers are still only | | | | antipasto and tomato based Italian dishes. |
| vaguely aware that a wonderful new world of | | | | Tempranillo is the mainstay of the famous red |
| choice is opening up for them. | | | | wines of the Rioja region in Spain. It can be |
| So what are some of the things to look for in | | | | enjoyed young and fruity when its flavour is |
| these new varieties? | | | | reminiscent of strawberries, but with some age it |
| The first thing to realise is that the main reason | | | | will improve. The colour is deep prefiguring |
| why the winemaker is using a different variety is | | | | flavours of blackberries, mulberries and cherries. |
| to give the consumer a different taste | | | | The soft tannins and moderate acidity in many |
| experience. The aroma, flavour, texture and | | | | Tempranillo wines give a lush texture for easy |
| mouthfeel will all be different, so you need to | | | | drinking, but you can match them with ham, |
| expect and enjoy the difference. | | | | smoked meats and sausages, or with roast lamb. |
| The thing I like best about Sangiovese is the finish. | | | | You may like to try some with soft ripe cheese |
| It leaves you with a slight tomato and oregano | | | | such as Camembert. |
| hint in the aftertaste. So it's obvious what foods | | | | Petit verdot is rapidly becoming popular in |
| you would match with Sangiovese. Many Italian | | | | Australia as a varietal wine, surpassing its |
| wines have obvious acidity and tannin, rather than | | | | traditional role as a minor blending variety with |
| upfront fruit like Australian Shiraz. Thus the sound | | | | Cabernet sauvignon. Look for the violet aromas in |
| advice "drink Sangiovese with food". This applies | | | | Petit verdot. The flavours are best described as |
| to most Italian red wines. Some flavours to look | | | | spicy, with hints of aniseed or liquorice added to |
| for in Sangiovese wines include bitter cherries, all | | | | the fruit, maybe even bring to mind your |
| manner of herbs and that tomato aftertaste. The | | | | mother's favourite Christmas cake. Lighter wines |
| obvious food matches are pastas and pizzas, or | | | | from the warmer wine regions can be enjoyed |
| perhaps with veal cutlets or Italian sausages. | | | | young but the richer more tannic wines need a |
| Nebbiolo is a difficult variety in the vineyard, in the | | | | few years in the bottle. Try them with barbecued |
| winery, and for consumers to come to grips with. | | | | meats or pastas with meat-based sauces. |
| To overcome these hurdles the variety must | | | | Don't get me wrong, I still like Shiraz, but I don't |
| eventually produce good wine, and so it does. The | | | | drink it every time I have a red. Life is much |
| first thing you notice about Nebbiolo is its colour. | | | | more interesting than that. |