The Italian Wine Guide

Italian wine glowing reputation is due not only tobut by no means exclusively in Tuscany (the
the fact that it produces and exports more thanso-called Supertuscans). Many such wines are now
any other country but that it offers the greatestclassified as IGT.
variety of types, ranging through nearly everyWinegrowing Zones:
colour, flavour and style imaginable.Northwest - most famous for the Piedmont
Italian producers have moved rapidly to theregion the Northwest also has the regions of Val
forefront of world Enology, improving techniquesd'Aosta, Lombardy, Liguria and Emilia-Romagna to
to create wines of undeniable class in everyits credit. Piedmont is famous for its Barolo and
region, North, Central and South. Their winesBarbaresco, both made from the Nebbiolo grape.
derive not only from native vines, whichIts Dolcettos and Barbera, both lighter and less
represent an enormous array, but also from aexpensive, should not be overlooked either.
complete range of International varieties.Emilia-Romagna is familiar to many Americans for
Italian Wine Guideits sparkling Lambrusco.
Ah, Italy - what a beautiful, hedonistic,Northeast - within this zone are the three regions:
disorganised, frustrating country! Italy can provideVeneto, Trentino-Alto Adige, and Friuli-Venezia
wine lovers with so many distinctive, uniqueGiulia, which are known collectively as the Tre
flavours and styles, bottles full of Italian verveVenezie. Veneto is Italy's largest producer of
and creativity. It also sluices forth rivers ofD.O.C wines. All three regions are affected by the
disgracefully thin, characterless stuff to be soldAlps which shield the zone from the cool, damp
under its most commercially useful names: PinotEuropean weather. Winemaking here is
Grigio, Soave, Valpolicella, Lambrusco, Frascati andcharacterized by modern efficiency relative to
the like.other Italian regions. This adherence to quality
Although the key to understanding Italy is tostandards has paid off with a booming export
understand that it is a group of regions rathermarket for the Venezie. Like all of Italy a wide
than a single homogeneous country, from thevariety of grapes are grown here with many
heady, often sweet, ferments of the deep southnative as well as international varietals. Some of
to the delicate sub-alpine essences of the north, itthe best known regions within this zone are
is possible to generalise about Italian wine stylesSoave, Valpolicella, Bardolino and Prosecco.
to a certain extent. Reds have a certainCentral - this winegrowing zone contains six
bitterness that is by no means unpleasant. In factregions: Tuscany, Umbria, Marches, Abruzzo,
it is so addictive that I find Italy is the oneLatium and Molise. The Sangiovese grape reigns
country I come home from positively determinedsupreme throughout this zone. Tuscany is without
to continue to drink its wines (rather than, asa doubt the most well known region within this
usual, desperate for a complete change). Italianzone with Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di
white wines, once distinguished by their lack ofMontepulciano and the ubiquitous Chianti. Trebbiano
aroma and lack of obvious fruitiness (veryand Orvieto are perhaps the most favored white
un-modern), are now generally very well made,grapes in this zone. Recently international varieties
offering an attractive combination of fruit andlike Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and
refreshment.Sauvignon Blanc as well as Pinot Noir have been
Making an Italian wine guide that covers the wholeplanted with favorable results.
of the country in just one web page is almost anSouth - this zone contains the regions of Sicily,
impossible task. There is hardly an inch of ItalyApulia, Sardinia, Calabria, Basillcata and Campania.
that couldn't ripen grapes suitable for wine, andBoth Apulia and Sicily compete for the highest
consequently there are a myriad of classifiedvolume producing region in Italy. Most of these
regions producing a diverse array of wines, somegrapes are used for non-wine products such as
of which are rarely seen outside of Italy.industrial alcohol. Quality has been improving
Consequently, this guide to Italian wine focusesrecently as yields are reduced, however. Given
just on the country's most prominent wines. I dealthe South's previous reputation for poor quality
with each Italian wine region in turn, from thethere are many good bargains currently on the
expensive and age-worthy wines of Barolo in themarket as producers focus on a better product
north, to the bargain glugging wines of the south.for the Italian wine export market.
But first, a note on the Italian wine classifications.Italian Red Wines:
Understanding Italian labelsbianco white.cantinaBold, Full-bodied, and Delicious - From lush, deep
means literally 'cellar' or 'winery'. A Cantina Socialered Chiantis to light, fruity Bardolinos, Italy
is a co-operative winery.produces some of the world's best red wine.
Classico, usually the original heartland of a winePerfect to add extra luster to Italy's rich cuisine,
zone. Something to head for.cru is, especially inItaly offers variety, quality, and style.
Piedmont, a specially designated vineyard.As we already know, Italy has very diverse
DOC, Denominazione di Origine Controllata, Italy'swine-growing regions. The cool, mountainous
failed attempt at a system of distinguishing itsnorthern region of Piedmont produces crisp,
superior wines fashioned in the image of France'saustere wines, whereas the sunny, temperate
appellation contrôlée. Some argue itcentral region of Tuscany yields bold, lusty,
was imposed too early and too strictly, othersfull-bodied sensations. Italian wines have a
that it was too late and not strictly enough. Thecomplexity and earthiness that reflects the soil,
truth is probably that the Italians do not willinglythe unique Italian grape varietals, and Italian
submit to regulation. For the consumer, DOCwinemaker craft. Over sixty percent of the wine
means precious little, for in many DOCs thegrown in Italy is red wine. Chianti, Amarone,
allowed yields are often far too high toBarolo,B or arbaresco: Italy offers a myriad of
concentrate quality in the resulting wines.tasty choices.
DOCG, Denominazione di Origine Controllata eAmarone
Garantita, the super-DOC category introduced forBarolo
the 1982 vintage and to which some DOCs haveBarbaresco
since been promoted. DOCG wines are reliablyBardolino
among Italy's better bottles though promotionsBrunello di Montalcino
have sometimes been purely political.frizzante,Chianti
lightly sparkling.Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
IGT, Indicazione Geografica Tipica, a category ofItalian White Wines
wines created in 1992 as an approximateHave a character all of their own. Crisp, soft, and
equivalent of the French Vin de Pays.liquoroso,highly acidic, they are made to accompany food,
strong, usually fortified.metodo classico or metodonot overpower it. Even Italian wines made from
tradizionale, bottle-fermented (sparklinggrapes popular elsewhere, such as Chardonnay,
wine).passito, strong (and usually sweet) winetake on a slightly different, richer character when
made from dried grapes.grown in Italian soil.
Riserva generally denotes prolonged ageing underItaly's best white wines are grown, primarily, in
carefully prescribed conditions.rosso, red.secco,the three regions called collectively, "Tre Venezie"
dry.spumante, sparkling.(literally, three Venices:) Veneto, Trentino
Superiore, usually a little higher in alcohol (0.5 toAlto-Adige, and Fruili-Venezia Guilia, as well as in
1%).tenuta, wine estate orPiedmont. The cooler northern climate of these
smallholding.vendemmia, vintage.vendemmiaareas adds the crisp flavor to these wines.
tardiva, late harvest.These white wines offer variety and unique
Vino da Tavola, Italy's supposedly basic table wineflavors. The next time you visit your
category, designed to be on a par with France'sneighborhood wine store, think Italian and try
Vin de Table. In the 1980s and 1990s it included asomething different. Sample one of these
significant proportion of Italy's best wines, whichoutstanding wines.
didn't conform to any DOC regulations, especially