On Italian Wine

Italy has the a long illustrious history in wine datingOrnellia which is usually about 50% Cabernet
back to the Roman Empire and the AncientSauvignon and 50% Merlot, and the delicious
Greeks who planted some vineyards in Sicily andCampaccio made with 75% Sangiovese and 25%
other parts of Southern Italy like; Calabria andCabernet.
Campania. The Romans with their far reachingSo, now that the laws governing the make-up of
Empire that stretched across Europe and intoChianti have changed for the betterment of this
North Africa, planted vineyards in every corner ofstoried Italian wine, the quality has tremendously
their domain, including; France, Germany, Spain,improved. I do not however agree with the new
and Croatia.laws allowing small percentages of Merlot,
Wine is as deeply rooted into the Italian lifestyleCabernet, or other French Vinifera in the blend or
as pizza, pasta, Prosciutto, and Parmigiano.the fact that Chianti can be made solely with
When it comes to wine there is no country onSangivose.
Earth that can compare to Italy. If you look atIn keeping with the great old tradition of Chianti, it
wine maps of other major wine producingshould always be a blended wine dominated by
countries, you will see that vineyards are plantedmostly Sangiovese with a small amount of a local
in just a few areas here and there as far as thesecondary grape or grapes like Cannaiolo or
entire land mass is concerned. Italy on the otherColorino. This is a true Chianti! If you want to
hand has vines planted in the whole of themake a wine with some of international varietals,
country, from Friuli in the North-East down to thethen label the wine as a Super Tuscan not Chianti.
toe of Calabria in the South-West andI must admit that Chianti and some of the
everywhere in-between, along with the largeSangiovese based Super Tuscans are my favorite
islands of Sardinia and Sicily.wine in the world, especially those of my good
No matter where you go in Italy you will findfriends who make the most wonderful wines you
grape vines growing. There is no country in thecould ever wish to drink. Wines like Prunaio and
world with such a multitude of grapes beingthe Chianti's from Alessandro Landini, the
cultivated, furthermore there is no country on theproprietor of Fattoria Vitticio, Conti Sebastiano
planet that has the diversity in wine styles andand Nicolo Cappone the aristocratic owners of the
grape varieties grown. The number of grapehistorical
varieties is staggering as compared to otherVilla Calcinaia in Greve. The Cappone's produce
countries. Take the United States, France, andgreat Chianti, Grappa, luscious olive oil, and one of
Australia for example, three of the top winethe nicest Vin Santo's I have ever tasted.
producing countries in the world, in terms of bothMy friends, the Fiore family, with father Vittorio
quality and quantity. In Australia and the U.S. theand sons Jyuri and Roberto, make the famous Il
primary grapes produced are Chardonay,Carbonaionne at their vineyard Podere Scallette,
Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon,high up on a hill in Greve that overlooks the entire
Syrah, and Pinot Noir. Add to this a fair amount ofChianti Classico zone with Firenze in the north and
Reisling and Gamay, a bit of Cabernet Franc, PinotSiena to the south. It's a spectacular view.
Bianco, Petit Verdot, and Petit Syrah and a fewAlso in Greve is friend Antonio at Vignamaggio,
other varieties and you have the major grapesthe estate where the worlds most famous
grown in these countries.painting, the Mona Lisa was painted by Leonardo
France cultivates these varieties and more,di Vinci. At Vignamaggio, perfection still follows Da
including Muscadet, Grenache, Viognier, andVinci with the most superb wines imaginable, with
Carrignan. No doubt they have a nice variety ofone of Italy's greatest single varietal Cabernet
great wine produced in France. Wines that I love,Francs, the Super Tuscan "Obsession," and the
especially from the Rhone and Bordeaux but forfabulous namesake wine "Mona Lisa," the estates
all the wonderful wines from France they can'tChianti Classico Riserva.
come close to touching Italy in number of stylesI am not saying that Chianti is the worlds best
and grape varieties.wine, no, it is my personal favorite, not as big as
Italy, for my money, is thee Worlds Best!Brunello, Amarone, or some Super Tuscans, but
There are a number of grape varieties that arefor me, the perfect wine to drink with Italian food
grown in Italy and no where else or in suchmade by either myself, my aunts, uncles, cousins,
minuscule amounts that they are of noor one of Italy's many wonderful cooks. The
consequence. One example, Nebbiolo, the solitarySangiovese grape that makes up most of the
grape that makes-up the famed Barolos andChianti blend and is in whole or part of many
Barbarescos of Peidmonte. Nebbiolo thrives mainlySuper Tuscans as well as Vino Nobile and Brunello
inis absolutely my favorite grape. It is not as
Peidmonte and in Lombardia, but no place else inpowerful and rich as Cabernet or Merlot, but it
world, although it has been grown in teenydoes have a good amount of power and
amounts in California and Virginia with mediocrewonderful rustic qualities that give it perfect
results.balance when made properly, making it an
As well as being the single grape variety thatexcellent choice with many different dishes the
makes up the famed Barolo's and Barbaresco's,Italian cuisine.
Nebbiolo is the grape of Gattinara, Nebbiolo d'There is wonderful lure and history behind Chianti
Alba, and several other wines of Peidmonte.and the wine zone that it is produced in, which
Wines made of Nebbiolo are wine world stars withmany feel is the most beautiful wine region in the
producers like Angelo Gaja, Aldo Conterno,world, with its beautiful rolling hills, filled with
Giacomo Conterno, La Spinetta, and the greatwondrous rows of grape vines, olive groves,
Bruno Giacosa, to name just a handful of famouscastles, stone farm houses, and cypress trees
producers who make the legendary Barolo's andthat seem to dot the crest of almost every hill.
Barbaresco's.Other important indigenous wines of Tuscany are
A few other excellent varieties that are grown inVernaccia, Vino Nobile, Morellino, Carmignano, and
Italy and nowhere else are grapes like Ruche,the highly exalted Brunello di Montalcino.
Negromano, Nero d' Avola, Ciliegielo, Monduese,Most of the great native wines of Tuscany are
and Picolit.red, it is red wine country, and the only important
Along with the indigenous varieties, Italy has greatnative white is Vernaccia from the beautiful
examples of the Big Four of the Wine World;medieval hilltop town of towers, San Gimignano.
Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, andThere is a saying amongst many Italian men. If
Syrah. With the tremendous amount of indigenousyou ask them if they are white or red wine
varieties along with the "Big Four" it makes for andrinkers? They'll reply, "White wine? What is the
infinite amount of styles that can be made ofpoint?" In other word. Why would you even think
single varietal wines or an endless range of winesof drinking white wine when you have red which
that are proprietary blends in which Italy makesis so much better? To some point, I do agree
by far the greatest number in the world.with them as I drink red about 90% of the time,
For any wine drinker interested in exploring thebut there are many great wines in the world, and
endless variety of interesting wines, with athey offer a different wine drinking experience
never-ending realm of possibilities of taste andand have some flavors and characteristics such
styles, they need look no further than Italy. It'sas certain mineral and floral qualities that you don't
the top of the ladder, but the sad fact is that forget in reds.
all of the hundreds of millions of people who drinkIf your having a nice long serious meal, it's great
wine regularly, there are just a small percentageto start the meal with a glass of white to get
who really delve into the great depths of all thatyour palate jump started before moving on to
is available. The large majority of wine drinkersone or more reds. Variety is the spice of life.
keep drinking the same old things over and over,The white wines of Italy! Here again in my opinion,
The Big Four, and if they do drink some ItalianItaly makes the best, although I know many
wines, most just drink Pinot Grigio, Chianti,would disagree. I'll stick by my guns. Many would
Brunello, Amarone, Valpolicella, and little else. Thissay that White Burgundies are the best whites in
great peninsula has so much to offer, it's mindthe world and that Burgundy is the greatest white
boggling, wines like; Barbera, Vermentino, Salicewine producing region. Well I would agree number
Salentino, Taurasi, Tocai, Aglianico d'Vulture, Grecoone that White Burgundies are the worlds best
d' Tufo, Fiano d' Avelino, Brachetto, Ripasso's,white wines, but although Burgundy produces the
Friesa, and Nero d'Avola, just to name a veryworlds greatest whites, it is not the greatest
few.white wine region in the world, personally I'd give
Some of the famous renowned wines are thethat honor to Friuli. Friuli produces some of the
great Barolo's and Barbaresco's, Vino Nobile,worlds most outstanding white wines. The reason
Brunello, Chianti, Amarone, and a multitude ofI feel that Friuli has the upper hand over Burgundy
wonderful Super Tuscans. What is a Superis simple. Yes I would say that White Burgundies
Tuscan? Many people will ask. It is mystifying toare the single greatest white wines, but they are
many, exactly what they are. It's a question thatof just one grape variety, Chardonnay.
is a little hard to explain, but I will do just that.Friuli-Venezia Guilia on the other hand makes white
A Super Tuscan wine is generally a wine that iswines of the highest quality as in Burgundy, but
made in Tuscany, in specific DOC and DOCGunlike Burgundy where the wines are only of one
zones where wines like Chianti, Brunello, Morellinosingle grape variety, the great wines of Friuli are
de Scansano, and Vino Nobile are made. To bemade with a number of wonderful grape varieties.
called Chianti, Brunello, or Vino Nobile, these winesVarities like Tocia, Sauvignon, Picolit, Riesling, Pinot
must be made within the geographic boundariesGrigio, Pinot Bianco, Verduzza, Traminer,
of the specific DOC or DOCG zone, and theyChardonnay, and Muller Thurgau which are all
must be made according to the laws set by themade in single varietals in different styles and in
Italian government, pertaining to the type ofvarious micro-climates to create wines that
grapes that can go into the particular wine, theexpress the varietal character of each grape in a
amount of grapes that can be harvested perhost of ways. Then there are the numerous
acre, prescribed amounts of time the wine mustproprietary blends like the prestigious wines of
be aged in wood, and when the wine may beSylvio Jermann who produces the famed Vintage
released for sale.Tunnina, Vinnaia, and Dreams, as well as the great
Through the 1960's and into the 70's it is sad towines of Schiopetto, Livio Felluga, and a host of
say that Italy on a whole was producing a lot ofothers. With all the different single varietal wines
really poor quality wine. They were going formade in various styles and the endless possibilities
quantity and not quality. This trend was spawnedof making proprietary blends, these are the
by the Italian government itself. In the case offactors why I feel that Friuli-Venezia-Giulia is the
Chianti for example, the laws to be followed forworlds preeminent quality white wine making
making this wine amounted to a recipe for makingregion, even greater than Burgundy.
awful wine. The governmental laws allowed forThe wine making region of Friuli is to white wines,
high yields of grapes per acre (which is not goodwhat Tuscany is to red wine, the greatest white
for making good quality wines) and allowed thewine producing region in the world, bar none! And
addition of up to 30% of Trebbiano, or as low asthese wines are now being coined "The Super
5% in the blend. Chianti being a red wine andWhites", the name fits.
Trebbiano being a white varietal, this was anWhite Burgundy? The wine is made of what?
insane concept. So it was up to each individualOne-hundred percent chardonnay, a grape variety
producer in the Chianti zone, whether theythat has gained some disdain amongst many wine
wanted to make smaller amounts of good qualitydrinkers around the world. This is what happens
wine or large amounts of bad wine. Youwhen any grape or wine becomes overly popular.
understand that you didn't have to put 30% whiteThis was the case with Soave in the 70's,
grapes in the blend if you didn't want to, but ifChardonnay in the 90's, and now Merlot. As some
you did want to, by law, you could do it, and thesay, "ABC". Anything-But-Chardonnay!
wine qualified as being Chianti.If you want to be adventurous and gain some
In the early 1970 there were a few pioneers inunique wine knowledge that few others around
Tuscany that were appalled by what was goingyou would have, delve into the marvelous array
on and decided to make great quality wines in theof the unique wines of Southern Italy and grape
regions of Morellino in Bolgheri on the Tuscanvarieties like Piedrossa, Negramano, Primitivo and
coastline and in the Chianti Clasico zone. TheseAglianico.
wines would be of great quality. Because theyAglianco, which is considered the greatest red
were made with Cabernet Sauvignon andvarietal of the south, comes mainly from the
Cabernet Franc (non-native grapes of Tuscany,regions of Campania and Basilicata, and are made
although Carminagno has been made for morein both single varietal wines, as well as Aglianico
than 400 years with a percentage of Cabernet, inbeing blended with Merlot, Cabernet, and or other
a small zone near Empoli) they would not qualifygrapes. In Campania they grow other grapes you
as any DOC or DOCG wines. So these new wineswill not find outside of Italy, like Piedirosso, Coda di
which where of the highest quality would by lawVolpe, and Fiano, of which is made one of Italy's
have to be labeled as IGT or Vino d Tavolopremier white wines, Fiano di Avellino. There are
wines, which is the lowest of the classifications. Inwonderful wines from Apulia made from the
the end didn't really matter, because everybodyprimary grapes of Negramano and Primitivo which
who knew anything about wines knew that theyis the grape believed to be the Genesis of
were great.Zinfandel.
So it was Nicolo Incissa Rochetta who on theYou will find a nice array of wines coming from
Tuscan coast in Bolgheri made the first of thethe island of Sardegna, from the white
now very famous Super Tuscan wines with hisVermentino's with their crisp clean make-up of
Sassicia a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernetfragrant floral aromas and ripe fruit in the palate,
Franc, and Sngiovese that was aged in smallto the great reds made of Cannonau and Monica,
French Oak Barrels, rather than the largethe Big Bold wines made with the native Carrignan
Slovenian Oak ones that were the norm forto Cabernet Sauvignon which grows exceedingly
hundreds of years.well on the island and comprises 100% of the
His cousin Piero Antinori soon followed suit in Thegreat wine, Sella and Mosca "Marchese", along with
Chianti Classico zone with the equally famousthe Vernaccia that's made in a sherry-like style,
Tignanello, usually made with twenty toas well as some extraordinary desert wines made
twenty-five percent Cabernet Sauvignon andwith Malvasia and Moscato.
about 75% Sangiovese aged in small barriqueThen last, but certainly not least in the south we
barrels as well, though the first vintage in 1971have the wines from Sicily where the wines have
was made soley of Sangiovese.made great strides in quality and worldwide
Wine critics recognized the quality of these winespopularity in the past few years. "Duca Enrico"
immediately, and it was the British wine writersand "Rosso del Conte" both made from 100%
and critics who started calling these greatNero d'Avola where for a long time, two of Sicily's
non-traditional wines of Tuscany, "Super Tuscans."small roster of prestigious wines, with few others.
The nickname caught on and it stuck to this day,In the past few years, Sicily has seen a great
although the name is unofficial and has never beenboom in terms of quality, notoriety, and sales.
recognized by the law makers in Italy.The Planeta family of Sicily has been one of the
So, are you still confused? To break it down inmajor forces in the recent trend of popularity and
simpler terms, a Super Tuscan is generally but notprestige of Sicilian wines. Planeta has sky-rocketed
always a wine that has 100% or a lesserto a well deserved fame in a very short amount
percentage in a blend the grape varieties ofof time, first with their big bold Merlot and
Merlot, Cabernet Suavignon, Cabernet Franc, andCabernet. In the past four years their luscious
sometimes Syrah. A Super Tuscan can also bechardonnay has been ranked among the top 50
made solely of Sangiovese or a combination ofwines in the world. The Planeta's also produce a
Sangiovese and one or more of the othergreat wine made from Nero d'Avola and one
internaltional grape varieties. These wines arefrom Syhrah as well as the nice inexpensive white
always aged for a good amount of time inand red table wines Segreta.
barriques, which are small (225 liter) French OakAnother family who are very instrumental in the
barrels.recent surge of Sicilian wines, is the Rallo family
A Super Tuscan can be made of any of thesewho have done a amazing job with their winery
varieties as a single mono varietal as is the caseof Donnafugata. Most famous of the Donnafugata
with Masseto which is 100% Merlot or 100%wines, would be the 100% Nero d'Avola based
Sangiovese as is the case with Prunaio, I Sodi SanMille un Notte.
Niccola, Sassolloro, and Il Carbiannone from theSo, there you have it. If you want to go on the
great winemaker Vitorio Fiore in Greve. A couplemost incredibly diverse wine journey on earth, dig
examples of Super Tuscan blended wines areinto the wines of Italy....