| If you are looking for fine Italian wine and food, | | | | Tomato Sauce. |
| consider Abruzzi. You may find a bargain, and I | | | | For desert enjoy a Crostata di Ricotta, a Ricotta |
| hope that you'll have fun on this fact-filled wine | | | | Tart. |
| education tour. | | | | OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY While we have |
| Abruzzi is located on the central eastern part of | | | | communicated with well over a thousand Italian |
| Italy on the coast of the Adriatic Sea. The area is | | | | wine producers and merchants to help prepare |
| 2/3 mountains and 1/3 hills. Over time Abruzzi has | | | | these articles, our policy is clear. All wines that we |
| belonged to the Romans, the Lombards, and the | | | | taste and review are purchased at the full retail |
| kingdom of Naples. While this area was once very | | | | price. |
| poor, its income is now growing. Abruzzi and | | | | Wine Reviewed |
| Molise were a single region from 1948 to 1965. Its | | | | Abruzzo Illuminati Montepulciano d'Abruzzo |
| population is 1.275 million. | | | | "Riparosso" 2004 DOC 13% alcohol about $11.50 |
| Agricultural products include grapes, olives, wheat, | | | | The marketing materials state that this wine has |
| sugar beets, tobacco, saffron, pigs, and sheep. | | | | hints of an Amarone (a much more expensive |
| The Adriatic Sea and inland lakes and streams | | | | wine) or a Ripasso ( a more expensive wine). |
| provide a wide variety of fish and shellfish. If I | | | | There are raisings, currants, and tar on the nose |
| remember correctly, the first time that I heard of | | | | whilst the taste profile is ripe, mellow fruit flavors |
| this region was decades ago, when I learned that | | | | of raspberry jam and ocha. It doesn't contain a |
| according to Craig Claiborne, at the time Food | | | | lot of acidity so drink it within a year. Pair it with |
| Editor of the New York Times, Italy's best food | | | | pizza, burgers, or any meat dish that you tend to |
| was found in Abruzzi. | | | | eat during the week. |
| Abruzzi has no large cities. Its administrative | | | | This wine is said to complement pasta, red |
| center l'Aquila has a population of about 70 | | | | meats, and savory cheeses. |
| thousand. But big cities are hardly a requirement | | | | I found the Riparosso to be somewhat robust, |
| for good wine. Few would ever claim that Italy's | | | | with cherry and plum flavors. I didn't have the |
| best wines come from Rome, or the surrounding | | | | feeling that I was drinking a regular Montepulciano |
| area. | | | | d'Abruzzo, but instead almost a Ripasso, a wine |
| Abruzzi devotes about eighty two thousand acres | | | | that I prefer. This wine managed to feel |
| to grapevines, it ranks 10th among the 20 Italian | | | | full-bodied even with its light tannins. It balanced |
| regions. Its total annual wine production is about | | | | nicely the tanginess of barbecued eggplant loaded |
| 110 million gallons, giving it a 5th place. About 90% | | | | with garlic, and demonstrated notable spiciness |
| of the wine production is red or rosé (not | | | | when paired with a meat ball and vegetable stew. |
| very much rosé), leaving 10% for white. | | | | Its acidity was pleasant. I did not discern all the |
| The region produces 3 DOC wines. DOC stands | | | | flavors listed above. For me the dominant flavor |
| for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which | | | | was black cherry. The final meat dish that |
| may be translated as Denomination of Controlled | | | | accompanied this wine was a barbecued boneless |
| Origin, presumably a high-quality wine and 1 DOCG | | | | rib steak with a spicy curry and cumin sauce. The |
| red wine, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Colline | | | | wine seemed to pick up strength to accompany |
| Teramane. The G in DOCG stands for Garantita, | | | | this meat, which by the way, we don't eat on a |
| but there is in fact no guarantee that such wines | | | | regular basis during the week. |
| are truly superior. About 17% of Abruzzi wine | | | | I tasted this wine with two related cheeses. |
| carries the DOC or DOCG designation. Abruzzi is | | | | Pecorino Toscano is a soft, nutty cheese. |
| home to about two dozen major and secondary | | | | Interestingly enough, I found that the wine was |
| grape varieties, a few more white and than red. | | | | no longer robust, it seemed to soften to |
| Widely grown international white grape varieties | | | | accompany this mild cheese. In the presence of a |
| include Trebbiano and Chardonnay. Sauvignon | | | | Pecorino Fiore Sardo, a balsamic sheep's milk |
| Blanc. The best known strictly Italian white variety | | | | cheese with a stronger flavor and coarser |
| is Trebbiano d'Abbruzzi, felt by some to be | | | | consistency than its Tuscan cousin, the wine |
| Bombino Bianco. | | | | almost magically picked up flavor to meet the |
| The best known Italian red variety is | | | | challenge. |
| Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. The Montepulciano | | | | Final verdict, as you can tell this wine is a definite |
| d'Abruzzo DOC is the most widely exported | | | | keeper. |
| Italian DOC wine. | | | | Extra note. Several months ago on a whim I |
| Before we reviewing the Abruzzi wine and cheese | | | | bought a $6 bottle of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. |
| that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local | | | | Given the realities of the marketplace, I really |
| wine store and a local Italian food store, here are | | | | doubt that any producer can come up with a |
| a few suggestions of what to eat with local wines | | | | decent bottle at that price. At first the wine was |
| when touring this beautiful region. | | | | terribly acidic. I held out, finished the bottle and |
| Start with a Pizza Rustica, Cinnamon-Scented Pie | | | | the last glass was almost OK. Yes, there are |
| Stuffed with Proscuitto, Cheese, and Eggs. | | | | bargains, such as this Riparosso, but few in the $6 |
| Then move on to Polenta sulla Spianatora, Polenta | | | | range. |
| (Cornbread) Topped with Sausage in Spicy | | | | |