I Love Italian Wine and Food - Aosta Valley Region, Piedmont Wine

If you are looking for fine Italian wine and food,$28
consider the Aosta Valley region of northern Italy.As stated above, little if any wine from the Aosta
You may find a bargain, and I hope that you'llValley region is available in North America. We had
have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour.to settle for a Piedmont wine produced only a
The Aosta Valley is a tiny corner of offew miles away from the Aosta Valley. For some
northwestern Italy bordering on France andreason I can't get out of my mind the 1905
Switzerland. This valley is surrounded by highGeorge M. Cohan Broadway title tune (Only)
mountains, including Europe's highest peak, MountForty-five Minutes from Broadway, think of the
Blanc. This was arguably the last region of Italy tochanges it brings. Given that this is a DOCG wine
be populated, because it was covered with icemade with Italy's best red grape, I really don't
until relatively recently. Over time it was occupiedfeel that I made a sacrifice. It is perhaps a fitting
by Celts, Romans, Ostrogoths, Byzantines,way to treat the last of Italy's regions.
Lombards, and Franks. It is bilingual, Italian andLet's start with the marketing materials. "The
French. The Aosta Valley is by far the smallestwinery has other jewels in its crown, as the
region of Italy with a population of only 120fabulous base Gattinara 2001 so eloquently proves
thousand.in the best version we can remember. A pure,
Agricultural is not particularly important, with theaustere nose expresses the Gattinara territory,
exception of cattle raising. There is substantialwith licorice and crushed roses from the Nebbiolo
forestry and some industry, in particulargrape and elegant streaks of eucalyptus, menthol,
hydroelectric power. The region is one of theand even acacia blossoms. The long lingering
wealthiest in Italy, with a highly developed touristpalate is lively and tangy, slightly held back by
sector.assertive tannins."
This region has no single capital. The largest city isLet's talk a bit about the bottle. As a DOCG red
Aosta, with a population of about 35 thousand. Itwine, there is a lavender ribbon at the top of the
was a Roman garrison over two thousand yearsbottle. The bottle itself has a unique curve that
ago, and is the best example of Roman cityfits in the palm of the hand. It was designed by a
planning in Italy. Among the Aosta Valley's touristglassmaker for the 1952 vintage, and proved so
attractions are the remains of a Romanpopular that the producer has been using it ever
amphitheater said to hold 20,000 spectators.since. The grapes are grown on steep slopes at
Other tourist attractions include medieval900-1300 feet in iron-rich soil with traces of
fortresses and churches, the Matterhorn, andCalcium and Magnesium Carbonate. The wine is
Mount Blanc.aged a year in French oak barriques, 18 months in
The Aosta Valley devotes only fifteen hundredSlovenian oak casks, and then for six months in
acres to grapevines, and ranks 20th among thethe bottle. It has been called an affordable Barolo,
20 Italian regions. Its total annual wine production(one of Italy's finest red wines that starts at
is about six hundred thousand gallons, also giving itabout twice its price). Wine Spectator Magazine
a 20th place. About 90% of the wine productionhas listed a previous vintage as one of the year's
is red or rosé (only a bit of rosé),100 best wines.
leaving about 10% for white. The region producesMy first pairing was with a cheeseless meat
a single DOC wine, that is divided into 23lasagna. Frankly the wine was wasted on this
categories. DOC stands for Denominazione dimeal. It was mouth-filling, long, and powerful, but
Origine Controllata, which may be translated asyet delicate. I felt that the wine was great on its
Denomination of Controlled Origin. Almost 23% ofown. A few ounces kept my mouth satisfied for
this region's wine carries the DOC. The Aostaa very long time.
Valley is home to almost three dozen major andThe next pairing was more suitable, grilled rib
secondary grape varieties, with somewhat moresteak in my spicy, homemade barbeque sauce
red than white varieties.that included ketchup, sweet and sour mustard,
Chardonnay is the most important internationalfresh garlic, and black pepper. The meal also
white grape variety in the Aosta Valley. Muscatincluded potato patties, and caponata, an
and Pinot Grigio (Pinot Gris) are also grown. LocalItalian-style eggplant and tomato salad. This
white varieties include Blanc de Morgeux andmarriage was made in heaven. The wine was
Petite Arvine, also grown in Switzerland.mouthfilling and powerful. A little bit went a very
International red grape varieties grown in thelong way.
Aosta Valley include Gamay, Grenache, Pinot NeroThe final meal was with slow-cooked, boneless
(Pinot Noir), and Syrah. Local red varieties includebeef ribs and potatoes. Once again, the wine was
Picotendro (called Nebbiolo in neighboring Piedmontvery powerful, tasting of leather and dark fruit. It
and arguably Italy's finest red grape), Petit Rouge,is easily the most powerful wine of the series,
and Fumin. In the unfortunate absence of anyand probably one of the most powerful wines
Aosta Valley wines, I am reviewing a DOCGthat I have ever tasted. However, I did not find
Nebbiolo-based wine from neighboring Piedmont. Ifthe tannins assertive; they blended perfectly with
I am ever in the Aosta Valley, I promise to drinkthe fruit and other flavors.
and review a few local wines.It might have been best to try this wine with a
Before reviewing the Aosta Valley-style wine andPiedmont cheese such as Gran Padano or
Italian cheese that I was lucky enough toGorgonzola, or with an Aosta Valley cheese such
purchase at a local wine store and a local Italianas Fontina. I had none of the above, so I settled
food store, here are a few suggestions of whatfor the ends of my Italian cheeses, coincidentally
to eat with indigenous wines when touring thisat more or less the end of this series. The
beautiful region.Gattinara took on a pleasant acidic character to
Start with Jambon de Bosses; Uncooked Ham.deal with a Montasio cheese from the Veneto
As the second course try Carré D'Agnelloarea that was past its prime. It also went well
Gratinato Alle Erbe; Grilled Loin of Lamb in awith a Sicilian Isola. I liked it the best with an
Pastry and Herb Crust.Asiago, also from the Veneto region. But once
For dessert indulge yourself with Crema allaagain the wine was somewhat wasted on these
Panna; Pannacotta from the Aosta Valley (a sortcheeses.
of crème caramel without eggs.)Final verdict. I don't think that this wine should be
OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY While we havecellared wine for a dozen years, but I would love
communicated with well over a thousand Italianto find out. If I had the money, I'd buy a case,
wine producers and merchants to help preparedrink a bottle a year, and then decide what to do.
these articles, our policy is clear. All wines that weNot going to happen. This wonderful wine will have
taste and review are purchased at the full retailto go into my once a year category. I'm already
price.looking forward to savoring and comparing the
Wine Reviewed2002 vintage with this wonderful 2001.
Travaglina Gattinara DOCG 13.5% alcohol about