| If you are looking for fine Italian wine and | | | | |
| food, consider the Aosta Valley region of | | | | Travaglina Gattinara DOCG 2001 13.5% alcohol |
| northern Italy. You may find a bargain, and I | | | | about $28 |
| hope that you'll have fun on this fact-filled | | | | |
| wine education tour. | | | | As stated above, little if any wine from the |
| | | | Aosta Valley region is available in North |
| The Aosta Valley is a tiny corner of of | | | | America. We had to settle for a Piedmont wine |
| northwestern Italy bordering on France and | | | | produced only a few miles away from the Aosta |
| Switzerland. This valley is surrounded by | | | | Valley. For some reason I can't get out of my |
| high mountains, including Europe's highest | | | | mind the 1905 George M. Cohan Broadway title |
| peak, Mount Blanc. This was arguably the last | | | | tune (Only) Forty-five Minutes from Broadway, |
| region of Italy to be populated, because it | | | | think of the changes it brings. Given that |
| was covered with ice until relatively | | | | this is a DOCG wine made with Italy's best |
| recently. Over time it was occupied by Celts, | | | | red grape, I really don't feel that I made a |
| Romans, Ostrogoths, Byzantines, Lombards, and | | | | sacrifice. It is perhaps a fitting way to |
| Franks. It is bilingual, Italian and French. | | | | treat the last of Italy's regions. |
| The Aosta Valley is by far the smallest | | | | |
| region of Italy with a population of only 120 | | | | Let's start with the marketing materials. |
| thousand. | | | | "The winery has other jewels in its crown, as |
| | | | the fabulous base Gattinara 2001 so |
| Agricultural is not particularly important, | | | | eloquently proves in the best version we can |
| with the exception of cattle raising. There | | | | remember. A pure, austere nose expresses the |
| is substantial forestry and some industry, in | | | | Gattinara territory, with licorice and |
| particular hydroelectric power. The region is | | | | crushed roses from the Nebbiolo grape and |
| one of the wealthiest in Italy, with a highly | | | | elegant streaks of eucalyptus, menthol, and |
| developed tourist sector. | | | | even acacia blossoms. The long lingering |
| | | | palate is lively and tangy, slightly held |
| This region has no single capital. The | | | | back by assertive tannins." |
| largest city is Aosta, with a population of | | | | |
| about 35 thousand. It was a Roman garrison | | | | Let's talk a bit about the bottle. As a DOCG |
| over two thousand years ago, and is the best | | | | red wine, there is a lavender ribbon at the |
| example of Roman city planning in Italy. | | | | top of the bottle. The bottle itself has a |
| Among the Aosta Valley's tourist attractions | | | | unique curve that fits in the palm of the |
| are the remains of a Roman amphitheater said | | | | hand. It was designed by a glassmaker for the |
| to hold 20,000 spectators. Other tourist | | | | 1952 vintage, and proved so popular that the |
| attractions include medieval fortresses and | | | | producer has been using it ever since. The |
| churches, the Matterhorn, and Mount Blanc. | | | | grapes are grown on steep slopes at 900-1300 |
| | | | feet in iron-rich soil with traces of Calcium |
| The Aosta Valley devotes only fifteen hundred | | | | and Magnesium Carbonate. The wine is aged a |
| acres to grapevines, and ranks 20th among the | | | | year in French oak barriques, 18 months in |
| 20 Italian regions. Its total annual wine | | | | Slovenian oak casks, and then for six months |
| production is about six hundred thousand | | | | in the bottle. It has been called an |
| gallons, also giving it a 20th place. About | | | | affordable Barolo, (one of Italy's finest red |
| 90% of the wine production is red or rosé | | | | wines that starts at about twice its price). |
| (only a bit of rosé), leaving about 10% | | | | Wine Spectator Magazine has listed a previous |
| for white. The region produces a single DOC | | | | vintage as one of the year's 100 best wines. |
| wine, that is divided into 23 categories. DOC | | | | |
| stands for Denominazione di Origine | | | | My first pairing was with a cheeseless meat |
| Controllata, which may be translated as | | | | lasagna. Frankly the wine was wasted on this |
| Denomination of Controlled Origin. Almost 23% | | | | meal. It was mouth-filling, long, and |
| of this region's wine carries the DOC. The | | | | powerful, but yet delicate. I felt that the |
| Aosta Valley is home to almost three dozen | | | | wine was great on its own. A few ounces kept |
| major and secondary grape varieties, with | | | | my mouth satisfied for a very long time. |
| somewhat more red than white varieties. | | | | |
| | | | The next pairing was more suitable, grilled |
| Chardonnay is the most important | | | | rib steak in my spicy, homemade barbeque |
| international white grape variety in the | | | | sauce that included ketchup, sweet and sour |
| Aosta Valley. Muscat and Pinot Grigio (Pinot | | | | mustard, fresh garlic, and black pepper. The |
| Gris) are also grown. Local white varieties | | | | meal also included potato patties, and |
| include Blanc de Morgeux and Petite Arvine, | | | | caponata, an Italian-style eggplant and |
| also grown in Switzerland. | | | | tomato salad. This marriage was made in |
| | | | heaven. The wine was mouthfilling and |
| International red grape varieties grown in | | | | powerful. A little bit went a very long way. |
| the Aosta Valley include Gamay, Grenache, | | | | |
| Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir), and Syrah. Local red | | | | The final meal was with slow-cooked, boneless |
| varieties include Picotendro (called Nebbiolo | | | | beef ribs and potatoes. Once again, the wine |
| in neighboring Piedmont and arguably Italy's | | | | was very powerful, tasting of leather and |
| finest red grape), Petit Rouge, and Fumin. In | | | | dark fruit. It is easily the most powerful |
| the unfortunate absence of any Aosta Valley | | | | wine of the series, and probably one of the |
| wines, I am reviewing a DOCG Nebbiolo-based | | | | most powerful wines that I have ever tasted. |
| wine from neighboring Piedmont. If I am ever | | | | However, I did not find the tannins |
| in the Aosta Valley, I promise to drink and | | | | assertive; they blended perfectly with the |
| review a few local wines. | | | | fruit and other flavors. |
| | | | |
| Before reviewing the Aosta Valley-style wine | | | | It might have been best to try this wine with |
| and Italian cheese that I was lucky enough to | | | | a Piedmont cheese such as Gran Padano or |
| purchase at a local wine store and a local | | | | Gorgonzola, or with an Aosta Valley cheese |
| Italian food store, here are a few | | | | such as Fontina. I had none of the above, so |
| suggestions of what to eat with indigenous | | | | I settled for the ends of my Italian cheeses, |
| wines when touring this beautiful region. | | | | coincidentally at more or less the end of |
| | | | this series. The Gattinara took on a pleasant |
| Start with Jambon de Bosses; Uncooked Ham. | | | | acidic character to deal with a Montasio |
| | | | cheese from the Veneto area that was past its |
| As the second course try Carré D'Agnello | | | | prime. It also went well with a Sicilian |
| Gratinato Alle Erbe; Grilled Loin of Lamb in | | | | Isola. I liked it the best with an Asiago, |
| a Pastry and Herb Crust. | | | | also from the Veneto region. But once again |
| | | | the wine was somewhat wasted on these |
| For dessert indulge yourself with Crema alla | | | | cheeses. |
| Panna; Pannacotta from the Aosta Valley (a | | | | |
| sort of crème caramel without eggs.) | | | | Final verdict. I don't think that this wine |
| | | | should be cellared for a dozen years, but I |
| OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY While we have | | | | would love to find out. If I had the money, |
| communicated with well over a thousand | | | | I'd buy a case, drink a bottle a year, and |
| Italian wine producers and merchants to help | | | | then decide what to do. Not going to happen. |
| prepare these articles, our policy is clear. | | | | This wonderful wine will have to go into my |
| All wines that we taste and review are | | | | once a year category. I'm already looking |
| purchased at the full retail price. | | | | forward to savoring and comparing the 2002 |
| | | | vintage with this excellent 2001. |
| Wine Reviewed | | | | |