Scenic backroads enhance Sonoma wine tour

If California wine country is in your vacation plans,begins to see just how important wine and
don't overlook central Sonoma County wheregrapes are to the local economy. You can get
you'll find scenic backroads, historical attractionsstarted at one of the many wine tasting rooms in
and, of course, some of the best wine in thetown or wait until you visit the wineries along the
world. Begin your visit with a fascinating tour ofway � in this part of Sonoma County, a
historic Petaluma.glass of premium wine is never far away.
We had spent an enjoyable weekend on aA local resident directed us north and west on
previous trip in the town of Sonoma �Dry Creek Road, a country road that almost
the best-known visitor destination in the countyseems European it is so lush and colorful. As
and a less corporate, less developed version ofpromised, the road meanders through vineyards
nearby Napa � but this time we wantedand bright fields of flowers, offering mystic vistas
to get off the beaten path a bit and experienceof the nearby hills. We passed farmhouse settings
the Sonoma County countryside. Because we hadso idyllic they seemed like they were created for
heard about the historic downtown buildings there,fairy tales. And, of course, every couple miles or
we decided our first stop would be Petaluma, aless there was another winery, many with tasting
city of about 60,000 people that is about 32 milesrooms beckoning the traveler to stop in and just
north of San Francisco."drink up" some of this famous Sonoma County
Driving up from Southern California, we wentatmosphere.
straight to the Sheraton Petaluma to rest up andThe Dry Creek Road runs parallel to Highway 101
begin a day of exploration the following day. Thisfor several miles and then we took a right on
particular hotel is located on the Petaluma RiverCanyon Road to cross back under the freeway
with its full-fledged marina providing both moorageand head over to Geyserville, just east of 101.
for local boaters and ambiance for the hotel. TheThis town of about a thousand souls is home to
river also provides a pleasant backdrop for hikingsome inns and is known for its location right in the
trails that begin at the hotel and take you severalheart of wine country. It's estimated that about
miles into the local marshland � the70 wineries are within a 15-minute radius of town.
perfect start to a sunny day in Sonoma County.From Geyserville we headed south on scenic
After a brisk morning walk we drove just aHighway 128, which eventually climbs out of the
couple of miles to Downtown Petaluma, whichvalley, over and through the hills and, finally, down
was just as advertised. Fortunately, theinto Napa County and the historic town of
downtown area survied the Big San FranciscoCalistoga. This area was settled back in the
earthquake of the early 20th Century. The resultmid-19th Century by Samuel Brannan, who
is a great collection of historic buildings, bothpublished San Franciso's first English language
business and residential. It's all within easy walkingnewspaper and was California's first millionaire. He
distance and it was fun to pick up local publicationswas interested in Calistoga's hot springs so he
and do our own historic walking tour of the area.purchased more than 2,000 acres, where he
The river adds a special feeling to the downtownwanted to build a spa similar to Saratoga in New
area and it's apparent that the locals have putYork. It opened in 1862, and was an immediate hit
great emphasis on creating boardwalks, specialwith the rich and famous of the day.
docks and other amenities to add to the area'sThe privileged still come to Calistoga �
overall charm.along with plenty of ordinary people. The appeal
As we ventured outward a few blocks from theremains the area's hot springs, and several inns
downtown, we were awed by rows and rows ofand resorts offer a hot spring experience as part
Victorian homes, most in good repair. The historicof their amenities. Still a small town with only
downtown of Petaluma is so treasured that it isabout 5,000 people, Calistoga prides itself on being
on the National Register of Historic Places. It soona center of wellness that attracts visitors looking
became apparent why so many people choose tofor therapeutic benefits from the hot springs. No
use Petaluma as a base of operations forneed to stay overnight to enjoy the hot springs;
exploring nearly 200 wineries in Sonoma County.day spas offer visitors the chance to dip and
The area's history is formally celebrated at thedrive.
Petaluma Historical Library and Museum, whereCalistoga has a small-town, Western feel, even
the building and everything inside are part of thethough there are plenty of expensive spa resorts
town's history. Also, about three miles east ofnearby to cater to your every whim. We
town, we came across the Petaluma Adobeespecially enjoyed spending some time over at
State Historic Park, a 41-acre park that featuresthe Sharpsteen Museum where they have a large
the former adobe ranch of General Marianodiorama depicting Calistoga as it looked like when
Guadalupe Vallejo. Dating back to 1834, the houseit was settled by Brannan. The museum was a
is a historical landmark and today featuresproject of Ben Sharpsteen, an animator, producer
authentic furniture and interpretive displays. Afterand director for Walt Disney Studios.
our morning of history it was time to venture onCalistoga was an ideal stop for the day, and put
with our daytrip by driving about 30 miles northus in position for a drive further into the Napa
on Highway 101 to the quaint town of Healdsburg.Valley for another day trip that was bound to
The town derives its name from Harmon Heald,bombard the senses just as this day's journey
an Ohio entrepreneur who initially set up the townhad. It was a backroad odyssey that had shown
grid back in the 1850's and sold lots for $15us some of the best that California wine country
apiece. Healdsburg was built around a Spanish-stylehas to offer � that is, that doesn't come
plaza which, today, remains the centerpiece of ain a bottle.
downtown that still retains many historic buildings.AT A GLANCE
The town has something of a Mayberry feel withWHERE: This journey begins in Petaluma, about 32
its Sweet Shop selling gumballs on the corner andmiles north of San Francisco, and ends at
institutions like the Raven Performing ArtsCalistoga, about 27 miles north of Napa. You'll
Theater that hosts local plays and featurestravel through some of the most beautiful parts
dinosaur rock acts such as Bo Diddly, theof California wine country.
performer in town during our visit.WHAT: California wine country is the perfect
But while the town may seem as simple asantidote to big-city hustle and bustle: idyllic farms,
Mayberry, life here is definitely more sophisticated.colorful fields of flowers, stately wineries with
There is a high per-capita number of gourmetvineyards clinging to the rolling hills.
restaurants, and high-end galleries, jewelry, apparelWHEN: Any time of the year.
and other gifts are clustered around the plaza.WHY: To enjoy historic attractions, gorgeous
More than anything, though, Healdsburg is ascenery, upscale shopping and � oh, yes,
jumping off point for gorgeous drives through thegreat wine-tasting.
Central Sonoma County countryside where one