| Portuguese for the dinner table | | | | licorice background. The color is deep and bright |
| There have always been a handful of wines in the | | | | and there's a healthy acidity and a sturdy 14.5% |
| middle, luscious table wines-mostly from the same | | | | alcohol to keep the whole thing afloat. Serve with |
| Duoro valley that produces port- that recalled the | | | | intensely flavored, firm textured food. We got the |
| complexity of vintage port or the earthy intensity | | | | best results decanting several hours ahead of |
| of a ripe bordeaux. Sadly, these wines are only | | | | dinner and serving at a cool, cellar temperature. |
| occasionally available in the American market: | | | | In the days of increasingly internationalized wine, |
| Barca Velha is 'declared' like a port, reliable Quinta | | | | this one is unmistakably from Portugal and we |
| do Crasto is hard to find and yummies from | | | | should be glad of it. From the same vintner |
| other regions, Alentejo for instance only show up | | | | comes the softer, more cherry-like |
| rarely. | | | | Chaminé ($8US), an easy-drinking fruit |
| So it's exciting to be able to report reliable supplies | | | | basket with lots of depth. There's lots of ripe fruit |
| of two outstanding table wines from Cortes de | | | | and spice on the nose and the 14% alcohol gives |
| Cima. The richer entry is the eponymous Cortes | | | | a generous mouth-feel. Except for one mis-match |
| de Cima, ($15US) a blend of Tempranillo, Syrah | | | | with tomato sauce, this was a delicious choice |
| and Trincadeira. The 2002 vintage showed | | | | with dinner. |
| generous portions of berries with a hint of | | | | Both wines are wonderful and at these price |
| evergreen, vanilla and raisins against an earthy, | | | | points represent unusual values. |