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Article #204: I Love German Wine and Food - A Rheinhessen Dornfelder

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If you are looking for fine German wine imported cheeses that we were lucky
and food, consider the Rheinhessen region enough to purchase at a local wine store
of southwestern Germany. You may find a and a local Italian food store, here are
bargain, and I hope that you'll have fun a few suggestions of what to eat with
on this fact-filled wine education tour indigenous wines when touring this
in which we review a local red beautiful region. Start with
Dornfelder. Zweibelkuchen (Onion Pie). For your
Rheinhessen is a relatively small area, second course enjoy Haxen und
sometimes called the land of the thousand Bratkartoffeln (Pork Hocks and Home
hills, nestled between the Rhine and the Fries). As a dessert indulge yourself
Nahe Rivers. It already was known for its with Frankfurter Kranz (Buttercream
wines in the days of Charlemagne. To some Cake).
extent it is famous or infamous for OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we
Liebfraumilch, to be reviewed in another taste and review are purchased at the
article in this series. Of all the German full retail price.
regions Rheinhessen is the one with the Wine Reviewed Rappenhof Dornfelder
largest area planted in wine grapes and Trocken 2004 13.0% alcohol about $15.50
also has the highest wine production. Let's start by quoting the marketing
Rheinhessen alone claims over a quarter materials. Dornfelder is a cross, bred in
of the German wine acreage and wine 1956 by August Herold. In its genealogy,
production. It is also produces the the grape claims every important red vine
highest percentage of generally low grown in Germany. Fortunately, it has
quality table wine, coming in at almost inherited most of the positive attributes
12%. More than 60% of Rheinhessen wine is and very few of the negative. The wines
middle quality QbA wine, and a bit more are deeply coloured, velvety in texture
than 25% is higher quality QmP wine. with hints of floral. Slightly off-dry,
About seven of eight bottles contain this example gives good aroma replays on
white wine, but the percentage of red the palate. Serve with Wiener schnitzel.
wine is increasing. The most widely grown Now for the review. (By the way, I
varieties are the German hybrid thought the color was more of a dark
Mueller-Thurgau and Silvaner. The usually rose.)
higher quality Riesling represents about My first pairing was with a barbecued,
10% of the total production. Dornfelder marinated rib steak with potato patties,
is the most widely planted red grape potato wedges, and a commercially
variety. The marketing materials, quoted prepared eggplant and tomato side dish.
below, present one viewpoint of this When I ate the meat and potatoes the wine
German-bred grape. came out very short with moderate fruit.
Mainz has a population of about eighty It crept back into the woodwork when
thousand. It is one of the centers of the faced with a fairly powerful eggplant
German wine trade. It is the capital of dish.
Rheinland-Pfalz, the only German state The next tasting involved a cheeseless
government that has a wine minister. The broccoli, mushroom, and zucchini quiche
city is built on the site of a two with mashed potatoes. The Dornfelder
thousand year-old Roman citadel. In this tasted sour and I sensed some sort of
part of the world two thousand years is a strange fruit in the background. I
short time; a local museum contains three finished the glass with beer nuts. The
hundred thousand year-old artifacts. In wine was fairly flat but the sourness did
season the Marktplatz (Market) and disappear.
Höfchen (Little Courtyard) buzz with The final meal consisted of meatballs in
farmers selling their wares on Tuesday, a tomato sauce with rice and green beans.
Friday, and Saturday. Check the exact The wine was somewhat rounder than before
dates for the annual Sektfest (Sparkling but was still ever so short. I thought I
Wine Festival) held in late May or early was drinking an alcoholic fruit juice.
June and then Johannisnacht, another wine The initial cheese pairing was with a
festival several weeks later. French goat cheese that really resembled
Other sites to see include the Dom a Camembert. While the wine was a bit
(Cathedral of St. Martin and St. Stephan) flat it did taste lightly of black
which broke ground shortly prior to the cherries. Then I went to a Swiss Gruyere.
turn of the first millennium. Because of The Dornfelder did become a bit more
seven fires most of the Cathedral is robust but lost some of its fruit on the
newer, dating from the Eleventh to the way. I terminated this disappointing
Thirteenth Centuries. The cloisters bottle with a locally produced, fairly
contain a museum of religious artifacts. sharp Asiago cheese that I prefer to its
Right near by is the Gutenberg Museum. presumably more authentic Italian cousin.
Other local museums are devoted to the Finally a decent pairing; the wine was
Middle Ages, Roman warships, art, plants, pleasant.
animals, and fossils. If all this touring Final verdict. I had no intention of
makes you thirsty for more than knowledge reviewing two Dornfelders one right after
visit the Kupferberg Sektkellerei the other. But we don't get many of them
(sparkling wine cellars), the deepest on in our neck of the woods so I figured why
earth. There are several concert halls, not give it a try. I am definitely not
theaters, night clubs, and wine bars. Not planning on a third round before the cows
far from the city are the Mainz Sand come home. I fail to see why such a grape
Dunes, a tiny area home to plants and should cost more than many better grapes
animals rarely seen in Western Europe. from German and other countries. Needless
Before reviewing the Rheinhessen wine and to say, if this wine were better...






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