| For the past few centuries, winemakers in | | | | other wine varieties to allow the wine to acquire |
| California have mainly looked upon the Barbera | | | | balance, complexity and body. By the early 90s, |
| Grape to provide Americans with a good quality | | | | Sangiovese finally made it into the outstanding |
| Italian-styled Californian wine. Unfortunately for the | | | | category of wine ratings and one year later |
| winemakers, the American consumers never | | | | Altamura, which is an example of a Sangiovese |
| really took to it. Not until the rush to terroir | | | | winery, received 94 from the B.T.I. |
| movement in the 80s did the vineyard owners | | | | Unlike the Barbera, which found some degree of |
| begin to seriously explore more suitable sites for | | | | popularity in the Central Coast and Sierra Foothills, |
| these grapes. More agreeable sites were found in | | | | the most spectacular Sangioveses were largely |
| the Central Coast regions and the Sierra Foothills. | | | | concentrated in the Sonoma County and Napa |
| But the wines, though they had improved | | | | Valley wineries like Altamura, Benziger, Swanson, |
| considerably, were still unable to attract more | | | | Consentino, Beaulieu Vineyards and Coturri, to |
| consumers. | | | | name a few. For instance, Santa Cruz, Santa |
| In the early 90s, the Cal-Ital wines took a new | | | | Ynez, Monterey, the Sierra Foothills, and Paso |
| turn. Firstly, the winemakers and representatives | | | | Robles received rave reviews from some critics, |
| of the wine industry conducted a subtle, | | | | while undermined or ignored by others. Perhaps |
| educational based campaign to inform the | | | | these critics were looking for the same depth and |
| consumers that the great red grapes of Italy | | | | richness of the great Cabernets, or the |
| were definitely not Barbera. But Nebbiolo and | | | | magnificence of the Pinots, or a similar high alcohol |
| Sangiovese grapes, which only a handful of | | | | and fruit concentration as the Renwood and |
| Californians had heard about. | | | | Eberle Barberas. |
| One of the foremost efforts to spread more | | | | One thing that most European winemakers have |
| publicity was by Piero Antinori when he purchased | | | | always considered as essential to fine wine, but |
| Atlas Peak Winery in Napa Valley. He replanted | | | | always takes second place in most reviews, is |
| most of the vineyard estate to Sangiovese, and | | | | balance. There are many American reviewers |
| endeavored to inform the American wine | | | | who sometimes describe a particular wine as |
| consumers that it was the principal grape used in | | | | elegant, giving us an image of light style, which is |
| every Chianti Classico and Chianti blend. These | | | | not particularly favored by the American wine |
| early efforts to produce good quality Sangiovese | | | | drinkers. However, few of us have grown out of |
| at attractive prices proved to be very promising, | | | | the the bigger the better pattern of our youth. |
| but did not do very well in the market. The | | | | We tend to favor explosive flavors, concentrated |
| reasons were plenty: Was it because of the | | | | fruit, and high alcohol contents, the very elements |
| terroir? Or inexperience on the part of the | | | | that cover up the fragile balance of flavors in |
| winemakers? Or maybe the nature of the grape | | | | painstakingly prepared foods. If there is something |
| itself? | | | | commendable about Italian wines, it is that they |
| Were these the reasons why the Californian | | | | are crafted to pair with the various foods that |
| Sangiovese was stuck in the 90-100 bracket for | | | | they were intended to accompany, not to subdue |
| such a long time? Traditionally, the Italian | | | | them. |
| Sangiovese is blended with small quantities of | | | | |